CAT CARE

 

 

ADJUSTING TO NEW ENVIRONMENTS.

  Adjusting to a new home can be one of the most traumatic times of your cat’s life. Please take your cat home as quickly and quietly as possible without any unnecessary delays. Cats can be frightened by new surroundings so it is a good idea to confine your new friend to the downstairs for the first few days and introduce it to the rest and busier parts of the house gradually. On arrival at it’s new home, the cat should be placed straight on the litter tray. Keep the tray in the same place at all times so the cat will not become confused. Praise the cat when it uses the tray.

 

COMFORT.   

  A commercially produced cat bed is ideal for your cat to sleep in, but a roomy cardboard box lined with warm bedding is just as good and readily accepted by cats. Place the bed/box somewhere warm (not hot) and away from draughts.

 

CONVEYANCE.     

  A secure cat carrier is essential for taking your cat home. Animals should never be conveyed loose in your car; it is illegal and a frightened animal can cause accidents. If the cat became frightened it could escape from you.

  Never carry your cat in a cardboard or wooden box or shopping bag, they will be terrified. There are many ideal carriers that can be purchased from petstores and veterinary surgeries. If you cannot afford essentials, such as a good carrier, then you cannot afford a cat.

 

FEEDING.

  Cat foods are available in tinned and dried form. These foods are especially formulated and contain all the necessary vitamins, protein and minerals that cats need. If your cat requires a special diet for a medical condition most Dried Food manufacturers sell special diet foods; your vet will advise when these are necessary.

  Fresh (cows) milk is mistakenly regarded as a necessary drink for cats and kittens; this is a serious mistake. Milk contains lactose which felines are unable to digest and can lead to serious bowel disorders. If you wish to give your cat an occasional treat, it is possible to purchase specially formulated milk (such as Whiska’s cat milk), but even this should be watered down slightly and only given occasionally.

  Most cats will want three meals per day; if you underfeed your cat it may well supplement it’s meals elsewhere. Food should be given at room temperature. If you keep the food in a refrigerator, do put it in a dish and place in a cupboard for a while until the chill is off the food before giving it to your cat.

  Fresh water, changed daily, should always be left down, especially if your cat eats dried food.

 

GROOMING. 

  Grooming is a necessary part of your cat’s  care and should be started as soon as your cat has settled into it’s new home. Choose a time when the house is quiet and the cat is relaxed; usually when it has had it’s evening meal and is ready for a fuss.

Grooming is especially important with long and semi long haired cats in order to prevent knots from forming in it’s coat and fur balls in it’s stomach.

 

HYGIENE.

  The cat’s bedding should be kept clean at all times in order to discourage fleas from breeding. Food dishes should be washed after every meal and water changed once each day.

Disinfectants should be used with care as those based on phenol are toxic to cats.

 

INTRODUCING THE CAT TO IT’S NEW HOME. 

  Take the cat home at a time when you will have a few days to spend with it whilst it settles in. Introduce the cat to the house and household gradually, especially if it is nervous. For the first few days, keep it confined to the downstairs area.

  Do not crowd the cat but allow it to come to you for a little fuss when it feels like it. Introduce it to other members of the household one at a time.

  Giving your cat a cuddle is pleasant and important but do not force your attention on the cat. By all means, play with the cat on the floor when it wants to play, but when it has had enough, do let it rest.

 

 JEALOUSY.

  Jealousy may develop for awhile between an established cat and a newcomer. You should make an extra fuss of your established cat, especially when the newcomer is around. Should the established cat bat the new cat with it’s paw, do not scold it; it is telling the newcomer who is number one. Of course, you must not allow an outright attack by one cat on the other.

  In a multi-cat household, one or more of the cats, though neutered may start to spray. Should this happen, it can be stopped by using Feliway Natural Spray, obtainable from your vet. Feliway is based on a cats natural pheromones and is quite odourless. It can also be used to introduce a nervous cat to a new home or to a cat carrier.

 

NEUTERING.

  Cats can, and should, be neutered at any time from six months old, (the sooner, the better). Do not believe the old wives tale about females being allowed one litter. You will live to regret it. Cats do not anticipate the, “ ? pleasures of motherhood” as do humans. When in season, they merely follow the blind instincts of their senses.

  Neutering discourages cats from wandering and eventually getting lost, or contacting one of the fatal viruses that are past on by fighting and mating. It also prevents the male cat from causing bad smells and neglecting it’s self.

  Un-neutered females attract un-neutered males into the area from miles around; you will be unpopular with your neighbours. This leads to more unwanted kittens and the spread of diseases amongst cats.

 

PARASITES.

  Check your cat’s ears regularly for ear mite. Untreated, ear mite can cause infection of the ears which can result in pain and eventually deafness. If mites are present the ears will appear to have wax or dust in them.

  If the cat’s stomach seems to be swollen, this could indicate the presence of worms, especially if the bowel motions are loose or have drops of blood in them.

  Fleas are a common problem with cats but can be easily dealt with. In the case of fleas, the home should be treated as well as the cat.

  A regular check up by your vet. is the best way to avoid or rectify any of the above problems. Only use treatment recommended by a vet.

 

SCRATCHING POSTS. 

 Scratching posts can be purchased from any petstore and can help to protect your furniture. Place the scratching post close to where your cat most often sleeps. If you see the cat scratch the furniture, gently scold it, take it to the post and scratch the post yourself. Often the cat will copy you; if it does, then praise it.

 

TOYS. 

  Toys are an essential part of a cat’s life, no matter what it’s age. Among the most favoured are, ping pong balls, small toy mice and catnip bombs. One very good toy is a cat track.  But almost anything the cat can bat and chase after is just as good, even a ball of paper. Do not leave thin pieces of string or balls of wool lying around. Cats can become entangles and strangled by balls of wool; they can, and often do, swallow thin pieces of string.

  Never let your cat play with plastic bags as they may suffocate. If the cat’s toys have small things such as bells attached, take the bells off as they often come loose and can be swallowed.

 

VACCINATIONS.  

  Cats should be vaccinated against Feline Enteritis, Cat Flu and Feline Leukaemia (FeLV) as soon as possible. Cat flu can cause infection of the sinuses which is difficult to cure; Enteritis can kill and FeLV is incurable. Initially, both vaccinations are given as two injections, three weeks apart; we no longer advise annual boosters. We believe that regular boosters are not only unnecessary, but may prove dangerous.

 

IDENTIFICATION.  

  You should give serious consideration to having your cat electronically tagged, (microchipped). If your cat goes missing and is picked up by one of the rescue groups, it will be quickly returned to you. It is one method of identification that cannot be lost or removed.

  Collars are ineffectual for identification. If your cat is seen in someone’s garden wearing a collar, it will not be assumed that the cat is lost. Besides being shed by cats, collars often become caught up on hedges and fences. Many cats have been found hung by them or starved to death through being unable to escape.

 

 

DANGERS IN THE HOME.  

  Cats are inquisitive creatures and are easily put at risk in the home. Keep windows closed if the cat has to be kept indoors; especially during it’s settling in period, it can easily escape through an open window. In the case of a fall from an upstairs window, serious injury or death will result, in spite of the old tale about a cat always landing on it’s paws.

  Washing machines, spin dryers and refrigerators are very much a danger to cats. If you leave the door open and your back turned, even for a few seconds, do check before closing the door.

  Electric flex, especially thin flex, is a very real danger; cats will chew through it and terrible burns or death will result.

  Poisonous plants are a definite threat as cats will chew plants. (See list of poisonous plants at the back of the booklet).

  Do not allow your cat to play in the wardrobe. If it slips when climbing up  clothes, it could hang it’s self on a coat hook.

  Other hazards are: open fire places - coal, gas or electric - do keep a guard around them; cleaning agents and detergents (especially those that are phenol based); and many substances found in sheds and garages.

 

 FOOD SUPPLEMENTS.   

  Extra vitamins, minerals and other supplements are only necessary if you feed your cat regularly on anything other than commercially produced cat foods, dry or tinned.

  A little Flora spread, vegetable or fish oil or yoghurt is a very good additive and makes a tasty treat. They can be given straight or mixed in with the cats food once a week.

  Flora spread, vegetable oil and fish oil will help prevent fur balls forming in the cat’s stomach; keep it’s coat in good condition and help stave off arthritis in old age. Yoghurt will help keep the cat’s bowels in good order.

 

YOUNG CHILDREN.  

  Young children love to play with cats and most cats learn to feel safe with well behaved young children. Children should be taught how to pick a cat up correctly; (one hand under the cat’s chest and the other hand supporting it’s rump). Then cradle it gently in your arms.

  Teach them to not pick the cat up too often. Most cats resent being picked up, preferring to climb up on your knee in their own good time. Better to teach children to play on the floor with the cat and it’s toys.

  NEVER PICK A CAT UP BY THE SCRUFF. If done clumsily, you could cause great discomfort or even injury.

 BE HAPPY WITH YOUR CAT AND TREAT IT WELL AND IT WILL BE A COMPANION FOR MANY YEARS. THE RECORD AGE STANDS AT OVER THIRTY FOUR YEARS.