Preface

Do you really want to give a home to a cat, or will you be adding to the ever- growing cases of neglect and cruelty to the feline population? The purpose of writing this book is to try to give the reader some idea of what it means to take on the responsibility for an animal that you may not really want. This book is written for the benefit of anyone thinking of having a domestic cat, (the humble moggie), if the reader is thinking of buying a pedigree, he or she should seek information from those better placed to advise, such as a professional breeder. The writer bases his knowledge of cats on a number of years as a cat rescuer and the day to day running of a cat sanctuary, often with as many as fifty furry residents at any one time. All of which have been the subject of neglect at best, and down right cruelty in many of the cases.

To many people, deciding to have a cat is a simple decision. After all, they are cheaper and easier to keep than a dog; give them a couple of meals a day and they are happy; let them out day or night and they look after themselves; “yes, lets have a cat!” NOTHING COULD BE FURTHER FROM THE TRUTH! Taking on any animal is a great responsibility, and not just for a few years. If looked after well, cats can live into their twenties - in human terms. At present, the record age for a cat stands in excess of thirty years.

There is no such thing as a typical cat; whilst many habits and characteristics can be applied to most felines, there will always be the exception to the rule. Most cats hate traveling in a car; but there are bound to be some that will sit happily in the rear window enjoying the ride. Most cats will always use furniture as a scratch post; but somewhere there is bound to be one or two that never scratches the furniture. I hope that my efforts will impress upon the reader, the importance of making the correct decision on whether or not to have a cat; if so, which cat to select, how to look after it, and most important - the results of a prospective owner making the wrong decision. Many rescuers suffer heartbreak, hard work and great expense picking up the pieces after a careless owner has decided they no longer want their cat around, or that they cannot afford to have the cat neutered.

I well remember when my wife and I were bottle feeding eleven kittens every two hours, day and night for four to five weeks; and the litter of four kittens born outside and abandoned by their mother at birth. During the first two weeks three died, one from an infection and two from kidney failure due to the kittens having suckled soil for the first twelve hours of their lives, and being fly-blown. They were a litter of fighters and well deserved to have lived. One of the kittens was so determined that, after calling out the veterinary surgeon one night and whilst waiting for him to arrive, I attempted to give some comfort by giving the kitten a bottle; he did indeed give two sucks before he lay down in my hand and died. Happily, one of the litter survived.

Whilst some prospective caring owners are not aware of these problems, it is true to say that many people just do not care as long as they can get hold of a kitten to keep the children happy. Once the kitten has grown and the kids are no longer interested, the cat can go.

Read on, but think before you play games with the life of a living creature. No one should seek to obtain a cat as a pet or a cuddly toy; or as a substitute for a child. Any animal is a living creature with the ability to feel pain and distress. They have the right to a decent life, consideration to it's comforts and to be treated with respect. You should not have an animal as a possession or as a means of entertainment. If you welcome a cat into your home, then yours is the responsibility to provide it with the life it needs and deserves.

CHAPTER ONE

DO I REALLY WANT A CAT

So you have thought about having a cat or kitten. STOP RlGHT THERE AND THINK! Why do you want a cat? There are very few reasons for having a cat and many reasons for NOT having one. First, you must know whether or not you love cats; second, can you give a cat a good stable home? And what will happen to the cat if your lifestyle undergoes a drastic change? To help with these decisions it is important to find out something about our feline friends. They are not all the same, either in looks or temperament. It is hoped that by the end of this book the reader will have a better understanding of just what it means to be a cat owner.

Let us say that, yes you do love cats and the idea of sitting comfortably before the fire, watching television with a cuddly, purring ball of fur curled up on your knee appeals to you. A lovely domestic vision isn't it? But will it be like that? It very often takes time to build up a trusting relationship with a cat; remember, they are creatures of habit, familiarity and stability. Too often the new cat owner thinks that once selected, the cat will accept it's new home and owner straight away and from then on it is all plain sailing. However, the personality and character of the cat population is as varied as that of the human species. But, it is true that if you are patient and loving to your feline companion, no matter what it's personality, the results can be and often are truly rewarding; patience is the key word here.

Then there is the cost! If you are really taking good care of your cat, there will, in addition to feeding, be veterinary costs - both routine treatment such as vaccinations, worming, de-fleeing, ear cleaning and possible dental treatment - and the possibility of serious illness or injury. As well as the obvious road dangers, there are many evil people who may inflict serious and unwarranted injury on your cat. Any animal suffering an injury or illness that can be cured, even though it might be expensive, has the right to be cured. It is wrong to say, ”I cannot afford the treatment so I will have my cat put to sleep”. Yes! if the cat is in serious pain and it has an incurable illness or a serious injury that cannot be repaired, euthanasia should be considered. But, if cost is the deciding factor, you cannot afford to have a cat in the first place. Also consider, can you face the loss if your cat dies, maybe at a young age?

Having a cat will tie you down; you cannot go away and leave it to fend for it's self. It will have to be fed and it is not a good idea, when going on holiday, to leave a neighbor to feed the cat. Can you be sure it will be looked after? Many cats that have been left to the care of a neighbor have gone missing by the time the owner returns. Cats sometimes have a tendency to feel unwanted or deserted if their owners go away. So, you are faced with the cost of a cattery and good boarding catteries can be quite expensive - though worth it in the long run - and difficult to find. Sometimes you only realise a cattery is unsuitable when it is too late.

An unstable home is also unsuitable for cats, they really need stability. If, due to your work or lifestyle, you expect to move home frequently, you should never think of having a cat. Anyone serving in the armed forces in particular, will be unable to give a cat a suitable home. As stated earlier, there are more reasons for not having a cat than there are for having one.

The only reasons for having a cat or kitten:

1) You love and understand cats and their problems.

2) You can and want to give a good stable home to a cat in need.

3) It is a family decision and the cat will be welcomed as a family member.

4) You accept a cat for what it is and not what you want it to be.

Some reasons for NOT having a cat or kitten:

1) For the sake of the children.

2) As a present for someone.

3) To catch mice.

4) It seems a nice idea at the time.

5) Kittens are cute.

6) Stroking an animal is therapeutic and a cat does not need much looking after.

7) A home looks much more cosy with a cat curled up in front of the fire.

8) For something to hold and cuddle.

9) I want a kitten rather than a cat so that I can train it.

Let me tell you right away, no cat or kitten can be trained. I am frequently asked such questions as - "How can you train a cat or kitten not to use the furniture as a scratch pad?" and, "How can you train a cat not to climb on the work top of the kitchen unit?". The answer is, if your furniture is so important to you, or you are house proud, you should not consider having a cat, they cannot be trained, they can only be conditioned. I have often heard it said that if a cat has a habit you do not like, such as scratching furniture, you should keep a small hand spray filled with water close to hand. When the cat scratches the furniture you give it a quick spray and eventually the cat will stop it's habit. That is complete rubbish; the cat still indulges it's habit whenever you are not around, but it will run from you whenever you have something in your hands. You will end up with a nervous cat that will not trust you, and there will be times when you need to handle your cat in order to worm or de-flea it.

To discourage a cat from scratching the furniture it will be necessary to purchase a scratch post. When your cat scratches the furniture, gently scold it and take it to the scratch post, hold him and scratch the post yourself, often the cat will copy you. When the cat uses the post, praise and stroke it. If you clean off the work top of the kitchen unit frequently and do not get into the habit of leaving food un-attended, there is less likely-hood of the cat nosing around for food. Kittens, in particular, have a habit of climbing up curtains; this can be a costly habit, especially with net curtains. They will also frequently run up your legs and back when you are putting out their food, you will soon feel like a pin-cushion. Ornaments will be damaged, the carpets will become marked as cats and kittens can and do frequently vomit. There is a great deal of pleasure in having cats but also a great deal of trouble.

Most responsible rescue societies will not home cats or kittens over the Christmas period for very good reasons: First, for most families the Christmas holiday is a busy and noisy time. A cat or kitten is going to need time to adjust to it's new home and the noise will unsettle it. There is also a great deal of coming and going with friends and relatives visiting, and a frightened animal could escape un-noticed. Second, and most important, at this time of the year some people are looking for Christmas presents that will not be wanted when Christmas is over. One particular Christmas, a friend of mine was asked if she had any long haired pretty kittens. The person making the enquiry said that she wanted to “tie a pretty bow around the kitten's neck, and give it to her niece on Christmas morning”! My friend was so upset by this that she wrote the following poem:

Christmas Kitten - Christmas Morning.

This life is so lovely - I'm warm and well fed,

With brothers and sisters there's five in my bed!

My mother’s here too and she's starting to purr,

'Cos me and my sisters are nuzzling her fur.

Suddenly footsteps - mum's all alert,

The door is flung open, I'm grabbed, Oh, that hurt!

My only defence is to spit and to hiss,

But I'm shoved in a box - Oh mother, what's this?

I’m being transported, (they call it a car),

But it must be to hell, 'cos the journey’s so far,

Oh mum what you taught me (and I know that you cared)

Didn't cover all this - Oh mum I'm so scared.....

At last we arrive and I'm carried in,

The children all scream, it's a terrible din,

I want to be friendly but they’re frightening me,

So I run off and hide under this big settee.

Then things quietened down I dared to come out,

But then when I did they just mauled me about,

I really don't think that they meant to hurt me,

But young children squeeze hard and I bruise easily.

So I'm back in hiding, the hours drift by,

I'm hungry and thirsty and wanting to cry,

I'm just six weeks old and I must have a 'poo',

But I can't see my tray, so what shall I do?

The kids are all playing, Dad's asleep in his chair,

He's put down his paper - I’ll do it on there,

I do the job quickly, the kids start to scream,

So I turn it all over so it can't be seen.

The Father awakes, throws his slipper at me,

I have to escape, so I’ll climb up this tree,

It starts to fall over, glass balls fall about,

The mother appears "Get that damned creature out!!!"

Was it only this morning I was warm and well fed,

With brothers and sisters and five in a bed?

Why have I been put in this damp, dark, cold shed?

THlS LIFE'S NOT WORTH LIVlNG - I WlSH I WAS DEAD!

Dene Shaw.

This is the kind of experience many kittens do go through, and why kittens should never be homed over the Christmas period, they are often only a toy to keep the kids happy. You must also consider where you live. Man is the cat's only real predator, unfortunately a very efficient one. Amongst the greatest dangers to cats are busy roads. Although most adult cats learn to cope with many busy roads, some areas are just not safe for the average cat; especially locations closely surrounded with very busy roads, multi-story blocks of flats where the cat has no ready access to the outside, or you have a close neighbour who will pose a threat to a cat. This will not necessarily mean you should not have a cat since there are many animals, with special needs, that must be kept indoors, This subject will be dealt with later in the book. If you do live near a busy road, remember, 90% of cats that are injured or killed on the road have their accidents during the night.

There is also the question of the family’s health. Some people are allergic to animal fur. Make sure that no one in your family has such an allergy. Take the family to visit a friend or relative who has a cat, and let the family stroke it. There is a belief that cats can cause or aggravate asthma, especially in children. No conclusive evidence to this effect exists; however, if you have a cat and a member of your family suffers an asthma attack your doctor will advise that you "get rid of the cat", and you will find it difficult not to comply with the doctor's advice. But, let us assume that you are determined, and you are the right sort of person to give a home to a cat. We now have to consider what cat to look for.

CHAPTER TWO

WHAT CAT SHOULD I CHOOSE?

Most people looking for their first cat decide to have a kitten, after all they are cute, cuddly and entertaining. But this may not be the best choice. Let us look at the differences between a cat and a kitten as a pet. Whilst adult cats have very little in common with humans, kittens have a great deal in common with babies and children. Like children they are prone to sudden illness. You can go out of the house for an hour leaving a little kitten playing happily and return to find it dead, or nearly so. lllness strikes kittens very quickly.

They are also an unknown quantity; their personalities very often change at around one year old. What was a little kitten that enjoyed being cuddled, may well grow into a young adult that will not be picked up. An adolescent cat is rarely a good companion. Like teenagers they enjoy being out having fun, there is a great world out there just waiting to be explored. In the case of a middle aged or elderly cat, what you see is what you get, and the older cat has proven it's ability to survive; the kitten has yet to learn, often with tragic consequences. And, contrary to popular belief, older cats settle well into a new home.

The older adults usually have very much more marked characters and personalities, something the kitten has yet to develop. The older the cat, the more it enjoys it's home-life. I have always thought that there are two types of cat owner; the pet owner and the cat lover. A cat lover will give a good home to any feline that is in need, age or temperament is not considered. The pet owner usually wants something to cuddle, and it is often the pet owner that expects more from our feline friends than they can give.

I have a number of cats in care that were originally feral, and whilst some of them love to be stroked, none of them can be picked up. But they are very lovely animals. However, because they cannot be picked up, very few people would consider giving them a home. Many people never experience the sensation one has the first time one gets to stroke a feral cat. Every small achievement - the first time the cat comes out of hiding when you are around, the first time the cat takes food from your hand - every first gives a feeling of having won something. One day the cat comes to you to be stroked and there are no words to describe the thrill that you will feel; but you know then, it is your companion. Even now I feel choked when I first stroke a feral or very timid cat, and I am not ashamed to admit to a few tears.

Most people wanting kittens do so because they want to have the cat for many years, and they feel that by having a four or five year old they will soon be without their companion, it may quickly die of old age. If neutered and well cared for, cats can live well into their twenties - in human terms. The record age for a cat, at the time of writing, is over thirty years of age. Females, on average, tend to live longer than males: short hairs tend to live slightly longer than long hairs and un-neutered cats live much shorter lives than neutered cats.

Even if you have a kitten, there is no guarantee that it will live a long life, roads being so busy, man and his motor car are the domestic cat's major predator. Many cats do die quite young from cancers, kidney failure and the killer viruses somewhat common amongst cats. So age is no indication of the length of time you will have your cat; like humans, they are toys of fate. If you do choose to have a mature adult that lives for only a few years, instead of selfishly mourning it and wishing you had decided on a kitten, you should remember with pride that you took a cat in need of a home - a poor unwanted creature and gave it love and care, remembering those times that the cat was happy and content and say to yourself, "at least I gave it a few happy years; and somewhere out there is another deprived animal that I can now care for". That is what being a cat lover means.

Talk to as many cat owners as you can about their animals; find out where they obtained their cat, what type of cat it is - friendly, timid, feral - but if you want a loving companion, then the older cat is your best bet and remember, the more mature felines can spend many years in care because no one chooses them; I say without fear of contradiction that many old cats rescued by larger rescue societies are put to sleep because no-one wants them. So too are the many cats that are unfriendly and difficult to handle. The main thing to consider when deciding between a cat and a kitten is that, the older a cat is, the happier it is with it's own company. Kittens under six months old do appreciate and often need the company of another kitten. Their play is part of their development.

It is not considered polite to remind people, especially the elderly, of their frailty or mortality. However, elderly people should consider the following before deciding to have a kitten. Kittens and very young cats can be extremely boisterous. If you are unsteady on your feet, you can quite easily be tripped up. Kittens always manage to be where you are putting your foot. Young cats will rub around your legs, especially when you are dealing with food in the kitchen. Think also, will you out-live your pet or vice versa? Should your cat out-live you, what will happen to it? If you have any relatives, will they either take it in or arrange to re-home it? And, is it fair that the cat should have to be moved? It may be better if you were to consider having a much older animal. Mature cats do make better companions for the elderly. They spend much more time around the house, they usually love to be on someone's lap and you can live out your lives together in true companionship.

You may already have a cat and decide to have a second one as a companion to it. Whether or not you should depends on a number of things. Does your cat really need a companion? Most mature adult cats, especially females, prefer not to have companion. If it has been an only cat for a number of years and likes to spend a great deal of time on your lap, it may well resent the intrusion of another feline in the house, especially if it has shown fear of other cats in the past. If, however, you do decide on a second cat you must introduce a much younger animal, preferably a kitten, or a young adolescent that does not have too boisterous a nature. On average, females take longer to accept a new cat than do males.

If you already have a dog in the house and decide to have a cat, you must consider the dog’s nature. If it is a quiet natured dog you are not likely to have much of a problem provide that you select a kitten or very young cat that does not have a nervous temperament. Obtaining a mature adult cat will not be a good idea unless the cat has been used to dogs in the past. It is not advisable to choose a kitten if you have a boisterous puppy. If the pup decides to play with the kitten, it's size and strength could cause terror or even injury to the kitten. Provided you make the right choice, dogs and cats often get on better than two cats.

CHAPTER THREE

CHOOSiNG A KiTTEN

If you decide to have a kitten or kittens, there are some very important facts to take into consideration. Kitten-hood is from birth to six months old when most cats start to sexually mature. You will often find kittens advertised for sale or free to good homes - the advertisers being owners that could not be bothered to have their female cat speyed; or they may be sold in a pet shop in which case they have usually originated from the type of home mentioned above. During the summer, the many rescue societies around the country are full of kittens; again they have come from uncaring homes, found with or without their mother in someone's garden or they may have come from the worst of all places...farms. You are not dealing with animals purpose bred by registered breeders, rarely do rescued kittens come from caring, knowledgeable homes. If the owners did care, the kittens would never have come into the world in the first place.

You will often be advised when looking for a kitten to check their health as they may, and indeed often are, carrying some health problem. But remember, it is these sick little kittens that urgently need a good caring home as quickly as possible and most illnesses can be cured. If you are a caring person, then you will bear in mind that it is these little things that need to be homed in a caring environment. Where ever you obtain your kitten from, you must remember that if you already have a cat you must isolate the kitten for two weeks, in a room separate from your established cat. It can take up to two weeks for any illness the kitten may be carrying to incubate. But you are well advised to have the kitten examined by a vet as soon as possible whether it appears healthy or otherwise.

When answering a kitten advertisement, you will often find that the kittens are six weeks old or even younger. Many of the people wanting to get rid of unwanted kittens think that once a kitten has weaned onto solids, it is alright for the kitten to leave it's mother; think in these terms; how would a child of, say, three years old feel if it was removed from it's parents and placed in a new home with a strange family, maybe of a different culture and speaking a strange language? In the wild, a kitten would not leave it's mother and litter until approximately twelve weeks old: I will not home kittens under this age. Anyone who thinks that a twelve week old kitten is too old is considering only what they want and not what is best for the kitten. But, under NO circumstances, should a kitten be removed from it’s litter under nine weeks of age. Even though a kitten will usually be weaned under nine weeks, it still takes some protection against illness from it’s mothers milk, and a kitten will learn to eat solid food before it learns to lap liquids.

A kitten removed from the litter under nine weeks old will suffer a great deal of stress; and besides the health risk, it may well develop psychological problems as it grows older. It may become nervous or not learn how to play. One problem I have often observed in adult cats is a particularly nasty habit that often results in them being abandoned or put to sleep. The cat is quite happy and friendly one minute and suddenly, without warning and for no apparent reason, it will lash out with it’s claws and may even bite; it does seem really savage. It then, just as suddenly, becomes it’s usual friendly self again. This sort of behaviour can be caused by hormone imbalance, or possibly some other medical problem so the advice of a vet should be sought. But in many cases, this type of behaviour is caused by a kitten being taken from the litter too soon. At about 10 weeks old kittens go through a fear period. This will last for up to two weeks. How the kitten is handled and dealt with at this time will determine whether the kitten grows up as an affectionate lap cat or a nervous and independent feline.

During the fear period the kitten is realising that not everything in the world is safe. You should not handle the kitten too often. Rather, encourage the kitten to come to you by enticing it with toys or treats. Loud and sudden noises will further alienate the kitten. Normally at this time the kitten would have the security of the litter to give it moral support. This is another reason why kittens should not be homed under 12 weeks.

Whether or not you should have a kitten will also depend on other factors. If all the household are out at work all day you should never have a cat under six months old. Apart from the loneliness the kitten would suffer, there is the feeding frequency to consider. As stated earlier, kittens can and do fall ill suddenly, it may be too late by the time you get home. Even two kittens together can grow away from you due to them not being used to you around the house. As they grow up they may come to view you as a necessary intrusion into their world, someone that turns up to provide food. Food is the greatest consideration. Under six months old, a kitten will require four meals a day. At eight weeks old, they should really be having six meals a day. As active, growing babies, kittens burn off energy as quickly as they eat. Once a kitten loses weight due to underfeeding, they rarely regain that loss until one year old.

Of course, deciding to have a kitten is often the result of having children in the home. NEVER OBTAIN A KITTEN AS A PRESENT FOR THE CHILDREN. Few parents, if any, will ever admit that their children may be badly behaved. Some children can be spoilt little brats that can cause pure hell for a kitten; even causing injuries to their soft bones. Be honest with yourself - do your children fall into this category? Happily, some children are well behaved and gentle. Such families are a paradise for kittens. But do make sure that if the children do lose interest in the family pet, you are willing to take care of the little one yourself. If the children are responsible and take care of the feeding, then be sure to teach them to feed the proper food at the proper times. If fed to often on scraps, the kittens health (usually it’s bowels) will suffer. I have often taken in abandoned kittens that will not eat cat or kitten food but will avidly eat crisps, chocolate, bread or chips and their bowels are a mess. It is obvious what type of home the kitten came from.

If yours is a good family, great! But, be prepared; some rescue societies will not home kittens under six months old with families where children are under five years. Other societies will, provided they can visit your home first to see how the children behave on their home ground. Remember, very young children will try to pick a kitten up too often and they do handle kittens roughly. It is not the fault of the child. It has not yet developed all its co-ordinations or sense of touch. Over six months old, a cat can avoid a rough child; a very young kitten cannot. Young couples with no family must consider what will happen when a baby comes along. All too often, societies are asked to take in cats and kittens because a baby has arrived. Many cat owners do not understand, or do not care about the stress a cat goes through when it has to be re-homed. And besides, the cat was there first, why should it have to go?

CHAPTER FOUR

CHOOSING AN ADULT CAT

If you choose to have an adult cat, the choices are numerous. Male, Female, young, middle aged, elderly. The cats you look at may be feral, just timid or very affectionate. Which cat you choose will usually depend upon why you want a cat. At six months old, the cat is considered to be an adolescent and reaching sexual maturity. You will probably find a greater choice of cats in one of the rescue societies. Cats, whose owners can no longer keep them for personal or domestic reasons, are often advertised in local papers and in veterinary surgeries. Even the friendliest cat will be a little nervous during the first few days in it’s new home so you must be patient with it.

Of course, there is the occasional stray that may turn up on your doorstep looking for a home. In this case you will have no problem settling it in because the cat has chosen you and your home. But you must make sure that it is a stray and not someone’s cat looking for a free meal. The easiest way to do this is to make enquiries around the neighbour-hood. Or you can buy a collar with a barrel attached to put on the cat. Place a message inside the barrel giving your telephone number and asking the owner to contact you. If they do, or if the cat turns up the following day without the collar, you will know that the cat does belong to someone. In this case you should resist the temptation to feed it. You should never feed someone else’s cat; apart from the fact that you may tempt it away from home, it could be on a special diet for medical reasons.

The adult cat requires a less number of meals per day than a kitten, but most adults do appreciate three meals per day. The cat will soon let you know how often it would like to be fed. Some owners do only feed twice per day, but remember, if it is not fed sufficiently it may subsidise it’s meals outside by finding someone else to feed it; this often leads to the cat having two homes, or leaving it’s original home altogether. Or it will hunt and eat it’s prey which causes worms and other health problems. The well fed cat hunts purely for sport.

If you obtain your cat from a good rescue society it will usually have been neutered. If the cat has not been neutered you should have this done before allowing the cat to go out. Even if you obtain a cat from a rescue society, it is not possible to tell by examination if a female cat has been speyed. In which case you will have to observe her in order to know if she comes into season: if she has not been speyed, she should come into season during the first few months - sooner during the warmer part of the year. It is fairly easy to tell when a female cat comes into season; generally, she will become more affectionate than usual and become quite vocal. She will probably trill or warble as well as meow; at the same time she will posture by stretching with her chest on the floor, her bottom up in the air and her tail along her back or side. She will also be desperate to go outdoors, but you must keep her in. As soon as she stops calling, (usually three to five days), consult your vet about having her speyed. If your cat is a male, a vet will be able to tell whether or not he has been neutered.

Each cat will bring a different problem with it, some problems are great and some small. Only by observing your feline friend constantly and applying common sense can you find an answer to whatever problem your cat may have, but there will usually be an answer. But at the end of the day it could be a problem that you have to learn to live with; or would you return the cat to where it came from? If you feel that you could only live with a lovely, sweet natured, cuddly little animal that brings no problems and will tolerate being picked up and cuddled just when you want to, then I doubt if you should be looking for a cat in the first place.

If you have chosen a very frightened feral or semi feral cat, all you can do is release it from the cat carrier and allow it to come to terms with it’s new surroundings in it’s own time. You will have to keep it indoors for at least a month, and possibly longer until you feel sure that it has accepted it’s new home even if it has not accepted you. Usually, even feral cats will eventually settle and do often semi tame at least. Patience, good food, nice treats, (such as fresh boiled chicken) and peace and quiet are the only answers; but it could take months. If you have a cat that cannot be easily handled, you may have to take it to the vet at some point; will you be able to cope? One important point to remember when dealing with feral or frightened cats - NEVER LOOK THE CAT IN THE EYE. Always avert your eyes, eye to eye contact is taken as a challenge by a cat.

CHAPTER FIVE

CATS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS

As mentioned in Chapter one, there may be reasons why you do not wish, or are unable to let a cat go out. No fit, healthy cat should be kept indoors for the duration of it’s life. Eventually, the cat may well develop stress related problems, and it will be a constant battle between you and your cat. Indeed, cats benefit from the effects of sunshine on their coats and they also feel the need to chew grass from time to time. It is still not fully understood why they need to chew grass, but it does cause them to vomit and it may be that the cat needs to cleanse it’s stomach. Any cat that has to be kept indoors may need to be given vitamin supplements and you should seek veterinary advice about this.

There are many cats in care that, for one reason or another, cannot be allowed to wander loose: cats that have had a limb amputated, blind, deaf or ataxic cats, cats suffering from epilepsy, diabetes or extreme old age. There are also cats diagnosed as being infectious from such viruses as F.I.V., F.E.L.V. or one of the many viruses that may present a risk to other cats they come into contact with. Though not suffering ill effects themselves, they are carriers and there-for must be kept isolated from any other none-infected felines. There are many such cases and one of these unfortunates would be ideal for your circumstances. Some, though not all, of these cats may require on-going treatment.

If you are a serious cat lover, you may be prepared to take on a ‘difficult to home’ cat. Even if it has a life expectancy of only a few months or years, you could give a loving and comfortable home to many cats, one after another, during your life. Though it has to be said that many of these animals do defy veterinary opinion and live out a reasonably long and happy life. Never the less, you would have the satisfaction of knowing that, as one cat leaves you another one can be given a little love, comfort and security for whatever time it has left. Your life would become so much richer; a treasure house of fond memories and experiences. The healthy chocolate box kitten will never want for a good home, but the less fortunate cats are often in care for the duration of their lives if not put to sleep. Even though they may be well fed and cared for, they often reach the end of their lives never having had the experience of individual love and security.

If you have a blind or deaf cat you will be amazed at how well they cope. I know of more than one cat with no eyes, sitting in a secure garden and actually appearing to watch birds flying past, so acute is their sense of hearing and so finely tuned are their whiskers. But, with blind cats, it is advisable to avoid moving furniture around too often as constant change can unsettle them.

If you live in a quiet country area, you could give some thought to giving a home to one of the feral or former feral cats. All that these cats require is a home with a little warmth, comfort and good food. Some feral cats, once settled in a good home where there are no other animals and few people, do learn to trust their owners eventually even though it may take anything up to two or three years. Some feral cats never accept a home with human habitation but will live happily in a out house with a regular supply of food. People willing to give these cats a home are worth their weight in gold because so many feral cats are put to sleep each year.

If you have a cat that must be kept indoors, do consider fitting a wooden frame, covered with wire mesh to the inside of an opening window. The frame should be fixed to the window by means of hinges. Then during the warm weather you can open the window without fear of the cat escaping. Not only will the cat enjoy the smells of the outside, but you will have the benefit of fresh air.

The feline population is so large and varied that, if you really are worthy to have a cat, there will be one somewhere just right for you. A cat that cannot be allowed to wander freely does not necessarily have to be kept indoors. Do give some consideration to having a large run, fitted with climbing shelves and a small shelter, built in your garden. Or even wire your garden in completely and fitted with a wire mesh cover. In this way you can give your cat fresh air and exercise. If you have a healthy cat but live in a dangerous location you would then have peace of mind from knowing that your cat is safe from roads, thieves and ‘cat hating’ neighbours.

Should you love cats but feel that, for one of any number of reasons, you could not take one into your home, you could consider sponsoring a ‘difficult to home’ cat that is in permanent care. Your local rescue society will be willing to give you details of any such schemes in your area.

CHAPTER SIX

INTRODUCING A CAT OR KITTEN TO A NEW HOME

Whether you decide to have a cat or a kitten there are a few things you are going to need and that is where your outlay begins. It is advisable to obtain all the things required before going to pick up the new member of your family. The most important things you will need are: a litter tray and scoop, a bag of cat litter, a feeding dish, a good sized water bowl and of course the food. All of these items can be purchased at any pet shop or supermarket. Most importantly, you will need a good cat carrier. Never get into the habit of carrying your cat or kitten loose in the car, it is against the law. Loose in the car, any animal may suddenly become frightened; especially if you have to break suddenly or swerve. If this does happen the cat could jump onto your shoulder or get under the foot peddles and an accident may occur. Veterinary surgeons do not like to see cats carried loose into their surgeries; many cats have escaped from their owners at surgeries and have never been found.

There are a number of good carriers that can be purchased from veterinary surgeries or pet stores. The least recommended are the cardboard box type. They do not last long, cannot be sterilised and a frightened cat can scratch it’s way out of one in ten minutes. The cat voyager is very good as it can be easily cleaned, gives the cat a feeling of security and still allow it to look out. So too are the wire basket type of carrier as the top opening makes it easier to load a frightened cat. If you are not prepared to invest in a decent carrier do not think of having a cat. If you have a kitten, do not waste money on the smallest carrier you can find, you have no idea how large your kitten will grow. Cat voyagers have another useful purpose; the top half can be removed from the bottom and the bottom half used as a cat bed. When you have to transport your cat around it will be familiar with it’s voyager.

A good scratch post is a must, it will help protect your furniture because the cat will use it at least some of the time. If you see your cat or kitten scratching the furniture, gently scold it and take it to the scratch post. Scratch the post yourself and you may be surprised at how quickly your feline friend will get the idea. Toys, for either an adult cat or kitten to play with are essential. They are an important part of part of a kitten’s development, and adult cats needs them to keep them occupied and their hunting skills honed. Without toys, an adult cat can become very bored. Ping-Pong balls and toy mice are favourites with most felines, so too are cat tracks. Screwed up pieces of paper, lengths of string pulled along the floor and even a newspaper laid open on the floor are all very good and cheap toys. If the toys have small bells attached do remove them, they easily become detached and can be swallowed. Never leave a kitten alone with a ball of string or wool as they become unravelled and the kitten could become entangled and strangled as a result. Never leave thin pieces of string, cotton or wool lying around as cats will often chew and swallow them. If this should happen the cat’s bowel could well become strangulated.

You can buy a cat bed but most animals will be happier with a cardboard box lined with some warm bedding. Before collecting your new friend, find out what food it prefers and ensure that you have some in. Lay everything out - litter tray, food and water and you are ready to collect your new companion.

As soon as you arrive home, take the cat/kitten out of it’s carrier and place it on the litter tray. If you have an adult cat or a nervous kitten, be prepared for it to go behind a settee or cupboard: do not worry, just leave it alone to come to terms with it’s new surroundings, but make sure it’s food and litter tray are close by. Do not creep around the house, but continue with your normal routine. If the cat/kitten stays in hiding two days, do keep your eye on the food and litter tray. In the case of a kitten, if after three days no food has been eaten nor the litter tray used, you will have to get the kitten out of hiding. A cat that is not too frightened should be allowed to explore it’s new home. But a kitten should be kept to the kitchen and the room you use most for the first day or two, gradually allowing it to expand it’s area over the following few days. Do not force your attentions on the cat but coax it gently to come to you. A piece of fresh chicken or some other treat is usually enough to coax any cat.

Do keep the cat confined to the downstairs until it has settled in, especially if it is a timid animal; if it is allowed upstairs too soon it may well find that it likes the peace and quiet and not come downstairs sufficiently to get used to the normal household activities. You may find the newcomer reluctant to eat for the first few days; do not worry as this is quite normal after the stress of moving to a new home. When you feed the cat, kneel at it’s side and stroke it gently. This often re-assures the animal just as it’s mother did by licking it prior to suckling when it was a kitten. If the cat does go into hiding, make sure that you leave it’s food, water and litter tray close enough for it to come out to eat when it feels safe enough to do so.

If you already have a cat, on bringing the newcomer home, allow the new cat to become familiar with one room before introducing it to your established cat. Later, allow them to get to know one another in their own time; never force them to-together. Make sure that they have the whole of the downstairs open to them in order that they can find their own space. Do make sure that you make more fuss of your first cat than usual whenever the new arrival is around. Be prepared for some spitting and hissing for a while. If your first cat bats the new cat around the ears do not worry, it’s just a reminder of who is number one. Of course, if there is an outright attack by one cat on the other, then they may never feel comfortable together. Make sure that you will have the first few days at home with the cats so that you can watch them until you are sure that both are going to be at ease. Settling in can often take quite some time, even as long as a month. Unlike a kitten, an adult cat may take a long time to build up enough trust to let you pick it up; but as soon as you can handle your cat, do make a visit to your veterinary surgeon to have it checked over.

If you have decided to obtain a kitten, you must remember that the journey and introduction to it’s new home will very probably be the first traumatic event of it’s life. In most cases it will be the first time the kitten has been away from the security of the litter. Take the kitten home as quickly as you can without any unnecessary delays, and handle it gently at all times. DO NOT constantly pick the kitten up or pass it from one person to another. Especially, do not allow children to keep nursing it or treating it like a doll. If the kitten appears to be missing it’s mother or litter you can wrap a warm (NOT HOT) hotwater bottle in some soft material and place it under the kitten’s bedding.

Should you decide to take the kitten to bed with you at night, take it’s litter tray and food up to the bedroom and once again, introduce it to the litter tray. If the kitten accidentally misses the litter tray do not rub it’s nose in the mess. The kitten will not know what it has done wrong and will become very confused. You should gently pick the kitten up, quietly scold it, place it in the litter tray and stroke it. If the kitten uses the tray correctly then praise it.

CHAPTER SEVEN

ALLOWING YOUR CAT OUT

When you first obtain a cat, even if vaccinated and neutered, it should not be allowed to go out for at least three weeks; it usually takes this long for the cat to bond with it’s new home. No matter how affectionate your cat is, it is the home that the cat bonds with, not it’s owner. A cat’s sense of small is very acute and the combination of smells in your home, though not obvious to you, will register in the cat’s brain. Once familiar with that combination, it acts as a beacon helping to guide the cat back to it’s home from quite a distance away. The matrix of smells will also represent love, food, warmth and security to your feline if it is well taken care of.

Do not believe the old wives tale that putting butter on a cat’s paws will bring it home, it is utter rubbish, and many cat owners have found that out to their cost and loss. It may well be true that a few owners have let their cats out after a few days in a new home and it has returned, but these cases are the exception to the rule and it is not worth the risk. Whether you are introducing your established cat to a new home or a new cat to your established home it should be kept in for three weeks. In the case of a feral or very timid cat your are advised to keep it in longer, until you are sure that it has accepted it’s new home. During the initial settling in period you must be very careful when opening the back or front door, especially when entering the house. A very determined cat can be crafty and very quickly dart between your feet.

If you have a kitten, you should not allow it out until it is six months old and has been neutered and vaccinated. A kitten does not mark (scent) it’s territory and can be easily distracted away from familiar ground, or they will very probably follow someone home. Even a neutered cat will mark it’s territory with the scent glands on it’s cheeks and back, by this means it becomes familiar with it’s local area.

The day will come when you feel you must let your cat out. This is a particularly anxious moment for the caring owner. But, do not worry, if the cat has been loved and well cared for, barring unforeseen accidents, your cat will come home. Choose a day when you are going to be at home all day, preferably a decent day when you can leave your door open. Give the cat a smaller than usual breakfast so that it will become hungry early and will then return all the sooner, especially if you have set feeding times. Make a lot of fuss of your friend before letting it out. Then all you can do is wait! When your cat does return ,give it a good meal, maybe even it’s favourite treat, and make a lot of fuss of it.

Get into the habit of letting your cat out of the house early in the morning; if it returns late in the day or early evening, keep it in for the night. Cats should never be allowed out at night. The roads become quieter and cats become careless; 90% of road accidents occur during the night and during these hours cat thieves are very active. Once in a while a cat that goes out for the first time stays out for twenty four or even forty eight hours. More often than not they do return; it has been making up for lost time.

If your cat has not returned after forty eight hours, you should consider it lost and take the following, necessary steps to find it:

1) Immediately contact your local rescue societies and the R.S.P.C.A.

2) Contact all local Veterinary Surgeries.

3) Place a notice in the ‘Lost and Found column of your local paper.

4) Contact the ‘Highway cleansing department’ of your local council in case

the cat has met with a fatal road accident. Most councils keep a record of

any animal that they pick up.

5) Print a notice giving a description of your cat, the area it has gone missing from, your telephone number and a request to ‘please search sheds and garages. Get as many photo-copies as you can, then deliver them through letter boxes in your area. Start in your immediate neighbourhood and work out in ever increasing circles. This will mean delivering hundreds of copies.

6) Walk around your neighbour-hood each evening calling the cat’s name.

After calling, stop and listen for a few minutes; if it is in hiding but afraid

to come out, it may well answer you.

7) When your cat returns, keep it in a week or two longer.

Collars are a mixed blessing. If you decide to put a collar on your cat, make sure that it has an elasticated section. All too often, the collar becomes hooked on a branch or nail and the cat can easily be hung or slowly starve to death. Flea collars are of little benefit. Even if they work against fleas, the effectiveness wears off and they do have to be replaced often. If you insist on a collar for your cat, ensure that you can easily slip two fingers between the cat’s neck and the collar; check the collar regularly to ensure that it does not become too tight; and remember, collars do wear the fur away in time and the cat may end up with eczema.

Cat flaps too are a mixed blessing, although they provide an easy means of entrance and exit for the resident cat, so too can any other cat enter your house looking for a free feed. In order to avoid this from happening, you could fit a flap with a magnetic lock. But this will mean your cat having to wear a collar fitted with a magnet in order to be able to enter through the flap. If you fit an ordinary cat flap, you must ensure that you do not leave cat or human food lying around; the food will encourage strange cats into your house.

CHOOSING AN ADULT CAT

BORIS